Much of the rocky coastline is backed by steep wooded slopes, vineyards and banana plantations. The coast road links a series of small villages – pretty Ponta do Sol, historic Madalena do Mar and Calheta, a former sugar production centre with an artificial sandy beach.
Further west, below towering cliffs, nestle Jardim doMar, one of Madeira’s most attractive villages and a burgeoning surf centre; and Paúl do Mar, another surfers’ hangout.
Above here, the wooded valleys around the village of Prazeres offer some superb walking country while, inland, Rabaçal is perhaps the most beautiful valley on the island and a base for more wonderful levada walks. Rabaçal marks the edge of the wild mountainplateau Paúl da Serra, a great destination for walking or a picnic.